How many cams do I need for a trad route?

The number of cams depends on the route length, difficulty and crack types. A typical single-pitch moderate route of 25m might need 6-10 cams in various sizes. Multi-pitch routes require more gear per pitch as you cannot clean and reuse protection between pitches if following.

Should I bring doubles of any cam sizes?

On routes with sustained cracks of a particular width, bring doubles or triples of the relevant cam sizes. If the guidebook mentions "hand crack" or "finger crack", bring extra cams in those size ranges. It is better to have too many than too few on a trad route.

What nuts should I carry?

A standard nut set covers sizes from micro (1-3) through small (4-7) to large (8-11). For most routes, a single set of nuts in sizes 1-11 is sufficient. Micro nuts are useful for thin cracks on harder routes. Hexentrics can supplement cams in wider placements.

CampCalcs

Rack Calculator

Build a climbing rack list based on route grade, length and crack sizes. Get a recommended gear list for your trad climb.

Route Length

Total vertical height of route

Number of Pitches

Route Grade

Crack Type

How We Calculate This

This calculator estimates a trad rack based on route characteristics and expected placement density.

Placement density

Easy routes: ~0.2 placements per metre
Moderate: ~0.3 placements per metre
Hard: ~0.4 placements per metre
Very hard: ~0.5 placements per metre

Gear distribution is adjusted based on crack type. Finger cracks need more small cams and nuts, hand cracks need medium cams, and offwidth requires large cams.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Last updated: February 2026

All calculations are estimates. Always verify conditions and use proper safety equipment outdoors.